Wine trick: in Saint-Jean wine is aged on roofs

In Saint-Jean, in the Alpes-Maritimes department, the Rasse family continues a tradition that reaches back to antiquity: here grapes are turned into wine not in cellars but under the hot Mediterranean sun. In large glass demijohns, left on roofs, a drink is born that the winemakers themselves call the “crazy” technique. It is a challenge to modern oenology: the wine ages many times faster and acquires unexpected aromas.

A little history: a tradition that has survived the centuries

Saint-Jean is a small village in the Alpes-Maritimes where the sun shines almost year-round. Here, far from the busy promenades of Nice, the Rasse family’s vineyards spread out. These winemakers carefully preserve a method practised by the Romans. In those times wine was not only drunk for celebrations but used in everyday life. To preserve the drink, it was aged in amphorae in the sun or by the hearth — this helped stabilise the liquid and extend its shelf life. With the advent of glass the technique moved into large demijohns, which were displayed on the roofs of houses.

Today the Rasse family is one of the few who continue this path. In an age of mass production and chemical additives they rely on nature and time, returning to the roots. Like the Bellet vineyards on the hills of Nice, this estate holds fast to local terroir rather than fashion.

Unique climate: the alliance of sun and grape

Saint-Jean has about 300 sunny days a year. This was the decisive factor when the Rasse family decided to revive an old grape variety — Saint-Jean. A variety once nearly forgotten due to its late ripening, today it is enjoying a second life. Engineer-agronomist and oenologist Manuel Rasse notes: “This variety is interesting because it ripens later than the others. It was abandoned in the past, but today, with climate change and extreme heat, its advantages are obvious.”

This year’s summer heat did not harm the harvest; on the contrary, it proved beneficial. Due to the lack of rain, fungal diseases have practically disappeared, and the grapes came through healthy and concentrated. Harvest here is carried out by hand, carefully selecting each bunch.

The secret of sun ageing: how the sunlight changes the flavour

Innovation or forgotten craft? Asked why demijohns are put on roofs, Manuel Rasse only smiles: “It’s the technique of the crazy. In classical oenology no one recommends subjecting wine to temperature fluctuations, but here that’s exactly what’s needed.” The wine is aged in oak barrels, and then part of it is transferred into large glass demijohns and left in the sun for periods ranging from six months to two years.

Such treatment produces several effects:

• Accelerated ageing: a month in the sun replaces a year of ageing in a cellar.
• Natural stabilisation: ultraviolet light and heat substitute for sulphites, which are usually used to protect wine from oxidation.
• Clarification: the sun causes sediment to form, and the drink becomes clearer.

The result is a wine with notes of dried fruits, spices and a light oxidation reminiscent of old Port wines.

Gastronomic heritage: what to serve it with

Wine aged in the sun is not only a tribute to tradition but also a discovery for gourmets. Thanks to its structure it pairs well with blue cheeses, aromatic tagines and even Indian cuisine. Manuel Rasse advises serving it with “dishes with bold flavour and fatty textures, such as blue cheeses or a spiced stew”. Finding a local gastronomic match is easy — farm cheeses from La Turbie to Monaco follow the same principles.

Only 10%: exclusivity of the method

Despite all the advantages, this method of production remains the preserve of the few. Of the 12–15 thousand bottles that the Rasse house releases each year, only a tenth undergoes sun ageing. The winemakers admit that the process is labour-intensive and requires constant monitoring: it’s important to cover the demijohns from rain in time and to turn them over at the right moment. But it’s worth it — the wine is rare and memorable.

Revival of traditions: the future of sun-aged winemaking

While many producers abandon ancient methods, the Rasse family proves otherwise: tradition has a future. Against the backdrop of global interest in natural products without additives, such wineries are attracting more attention. And for tourists coming to the Côte d’Azur, tasting such wine becomes not entertainment but a journey into the past.

Those seeking authentic flavours and not afraid of experiments should pay a visit to Saint-Jean. As they say here: “Wine is the sun trapped in a bottle.” In the case of the demijohns this expression takes on a literal meaning.

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Photo: Nikola Tomašić / Pexels